The west coast of Chios is wilder and less visited than the east, its beaches facing the open Aegean and catching the afternoon light in extraordinary ways. Lithi is the finest of these western beaches — a generous curve of smooth pebbles backed by the small fishing village of the same name, where a cluster of tavernas serves the freshest seafood imaginable.
The water here is cooler than the sheltered eastern bays — refreshing rather than warm — and the waves have more energy, making it particularly popular with younger visitors who enjoy the livelier conditions. On clear days you can see the Turkish coast to the east and the silhouette of the island of Psara to the north.
After swimming, walk up to the village for lunch. The taverna on the hill above the beach serves grilled octopus, fried red mullet, and plates of taramosalata that will recalibrate your understanding of what Greek food should taste like. Lithi is one of those places where you arrive for two hours and stay until sunset.