Of all the villages on Chios, none is more immediately arresting than Pyrgi. From the moment you pass through its ancient stone gateway, you understand why travelers call it one of the most unique villages in all of Greece. Every surface — every facade, every archway, every church wall — is covered in intricate black-and-white geometric patterns called xysta.
The word xysta means "scratched" in Greek, and the technique is exactly that: craftspeople apply a layer of black volcanic sand mixed with plaster over a white base, then painstakingly scratch away the top layer to reveal the white beneath, creating mesmerizing patterns of zigzags, diamonds, flowers, and stars. The black sand itself comes from the volcanic beaches nearby — Mavra Volia and Mavro Gialos — creating a beautiful circularity between the village and its landscape.
Pyrgi is the largest of the Mastichochoria — the 24 medieval mastic villages of southern Chios — and it has been producing mastic resin for centuries. Walking through its labyrinthine lanes, you will encounter women selling bags of fresh mastic crystals, the scent of resin mingling with woodsmoke and the fragrance of wild herbs. The village square is anchored by the Church of Agios Apostolos, its Byzantine frescoes remarkably well preserved.
The best time to visit Pyrgi is early morning, before the heat sets in and while the golden light throws the geometric patterns into sharp relief. Sit at the kafeneion on the square, order a Greek coffee and a small plate of mastiha spoon sweet, and watch the village come alive. This is Chios at its most authentic and most beautiful.
What to See
- The xysta facades — photograph every alley you walk down
- Church of Agios Apostolos with its Byzantine frescoes
- The central square and its traditional kafeneion
- Local mastic sellers and their handmade products
- The medieval watchtower at the village edge
Getting There
Pyrgi is located 25km south of Chios Town. By car it is a 30-minute drive through increasingly beautiful countryside. Local buses run from Chios Town several times daily in summer.